By this Author: jkirsch

Given the high temperatures during our trip, beer ended up playing a pretty important role, and with the variety we encountered (and naturally sampled), we thought it deserved a standalone post and would be fitting closure for this round.

While we unfortunately lack tasting notes for each one, we can safely say that there was a fairly wide quality range. Local brews, especially in Vietnam (where each city seems to boast at least one), unfortunately failed to win us over. Even in a landscape of other pale lagers, they came across watered down and lacking depth, though Huda (from Hue) and Larue (from Hoi An) were better than the rest. Beerlao was another notable exception and a justifiable source of national pride (apparently commanding a 99% of the home market). This might be down to their German-trained female brewmaster Sivilay Lasachack.

Otherwise, the imports took the day, especially one American lager that we came across in Saigon. Without further adieu, here's the brews in order of appearance. Thanks for reading and happy travels!

The only local brew we could actually find on draught



We noticed a strong push for San Miguel, leaning heavily on their Hong Kong/Macao heritage to take on Tiger in the region
Seemingly the only national Vietnamese beer


Interesting... a local beer in a Muslim state

Our travels already feel far behind us as we're at last settled in St. Louis and I've even started work, but what better way to keep that holiday feeling going that with a couple final posts.

We capped off our travels with a great couple of days in Kuala Lumpur. While it may not seem like a natural stop on the way home from Vietnam, it was the best option for using miles (thus free tickets) and gave us a great chance to visit the city and some friends there. We ended up having a great time, especially thanks to our wonderful tour guide and friend Hooi Ling. Going in, we'd expected something like Singapore, but found KL to be much more authentic and diverse with arguably better food to beat!

Petronas Towers from the Skybar at the Traders

According to Ling, food is especially important in Malaysian culture, and thus food-related activities appropriately consumed roughly 50% of our time in KL (likely leaving us a little heftier on departure). On our second night, we actually had dinner at an Indian restaurant, followed by dessert at a Cantonese-style cafe, and capped off the night directly after with Malaysian specialties in a night food market, thoroughly enjoying each stop. I tried to capture some of the action in the photos below, but they still don't quite do it justice.

Another successful meal
Sampling buckets of preserved "goodies" (At times a stretch of the word)
"Western food" was a loose interpretation...Surprisingly amazing Oxtail Nasi Goreng at Indonesian chain Es Teler 77
Roasted nuts are universal...

We didn't just eat though, and still managed to take in some of the city's sites, including the Petronas towers (even cooler in person) and the national mosque. Escorted by Hooi Ling, we also enjoyed a fish spa and intense reflexology treatment. All-in-all, a great finish!

You have to admit, the similarities are uncanny.

I’m writing this on the train from Hue – Vietnam’s imperial capital – to Da Nang and Hoi An, where we’ll spend a few days before heading on to Saigon.

Despite the mercury pushing 95 and high humidity, we’ve had a great first week in Vietnam, certainly helped by frequent breaks for ice cream and iced Vietnamese coffee. Initially, we had planned to split our first few days between Hanoi and Sapa – a scenic hill station in the country’s northeast – but liked the capital so much, that we decided to stick around (it was also a nice break from rural life after Laos). We stayed in the historical center of Hoan Kiem and really liked the city’s energy and overall feel. Slightly less fun was crossing streets without lights and in the middle of traffic, but we eventually got the hang of it (walk straight, move at a constant speed).

No unexpected moves

Despite the widespread lack of indoor A/C, we still managed to hit up the major sites including Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum, the Military Museum, the Temple of Literature, the Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton), and a show at the acclaimed Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre. The Mausoleum was particularly interesting as we made the arguably poor choice to go on a Sunday morning. Apparently, a visit to “Uncle Ho” makes a popular outing for a non-negligible portion of Hanoi’s population and we waited in the sweltering heat for over an hour to get a 30 second walk-by glimpse of his preserved body (at least he gets A/C).

Took us almost 20 minutes just to get to the start of the line
Breaktime for Ho's guard

At the sites dealing with the Indochinese war(s) – against the French, and the US – it was especially interesting to see the Vietnamese narrative. The below relic from the fall of Dien Bien Phu was pretty representative. Still, outside of these sites, both wars seem pretty far in the past.

(Caption reads: Evidence of the failure of the French)... Guess they should stick to fine wine and museums
Not sure what this would imply about US aircraft manufactuing

As usual and with my “digestive problems” behind me, we also managed to take full advantage of the food on offer in Hanoi. Of particular note were the street stall specializing in bun bo nam bo – grilled strips of beef, served over noodles – at 67 Hang Dieu Street, amazing homemade ice cream at Fanny, and ex-pat hangout, Puku. Also worth mentioning, even for this non-coffee drinker: café sua da (Vietnamese ice coffee), with just a bit of condensed milk has become a new drink-of-choice.

After Hanoi, we spent a couple of days in Hue, Vietnam’s imperial capital. If possible, the city felt even hotter and we’d be sweaty and drowsy from the moment we stepped outside. Despite the malaise, we made it to the Dong Ba market and the Citadel. Apparently, the heat kept most other foreigners away as we had the sites largely to ourselves. We also rallied for the second cooking class of the trip. Worth noting: the uniforms definitely make you feel like you know what you’re doing.

Sunset over the Perfume River

That’s all for now – Happy Travels!

As mentioned in Jake’s previous post, we kicked off our “goodbye b-school, hello real world” trip with a week in Northern Laos. After a two-day trip from St. Louis - which included a six hour layover in JFK, a nine hour layover in Hong Kong, and a twelve hour overnight in Bangkok - we finally arrived in Luang Prabang, our base for our time in Laos. With a population of slightly more than 100,000, Luang Prabang is the second largest city (town?) in Laos, which tells you something about how rural Laos is. Luang Prabang is very touristy, but also very cute and relaxing. We had a nice time wandering around, visiting temples, sweating out the unbelievable summer heat, and making way for monks (which seem to make up about half of LP’s population!).

Luang Prabang from above after a steamy hike up Phousy Hill
The "main" drag
sigh... the rainy season

In addition to hanging out in Luang Prabang, we built in a few days to explore rural Laos, which is absolutely beautiful. After a long and incredibly bumpy seven hour drive, we arrived in Muang La, a very small town about 30 minutes from Oudomxay, another “major” Lao “city”. The main reason for going to Muang La was to stay at the Muang La Resort, a luxury boutique resort I had heard about while planning the trip. It was easily the highlight of our time in Laos. We were the only guests staying at the hotel, which made it really special. If you are looking for relaxation, then this is the place to be. Our two days there consisted of the following wonderfully relaxing routine: massage at 5pm; hot spring hot tub and sauna at 6pm; delicious cocktails and dinner at 8pm. We managed to fit in one muddy and sweaty mountain bike ride through the countryside on Day 2, but other than that we pretty much just did nothing.

In addition to relaxing, we made a new friend at Muang La. His name is Monsieur Henri, and he’s a one-month old Macaque monkey! The manager of the hotel bought him from the villagers after they killed his mother to eat her brains (which apparently helps to make you more intelligent). He is too cute – they’ve built Henri a little cage near the reception desk, they feed him from a little bottle, and he even gets weekly baths! Jake took one look at the monkey and wanted his own…until he read the news about the woman in Connecticut who had gotten her skin ripped off by her neighbor’s pet chimp a few years back! I guess we’ll just have to content ourselves with Lana for now…..

From Muang La we took a really nice longboat ride back to Luang Prabang. The scenery was absolutely beautiful, although the trip was somewhat dampered by the fact that Jake got a bacterial infection from some fresh herbs he ate at a local noodle shop in Muang La (hence the sub-title of this post), and I got attacked by mosquitos on the first night of the boat ride. We took it a little easier on our stomachs for the rest our time in Laos, and managed to find an adorable French café called Café Ban Van Sene where we enjoyed lots of baguette and smoked ham!

Amazing local "Foe" (Laotian "Pho"). Was almost worth it...

So, overall impressions of Laos. The bacterial infection and bug bites definitely left us eager to leave rural Laos for the big city of Hanoi. But the charm of Luang Prabang is undeniable and the rural landscape is truly beautiful. We had a good time all in all, but I don’t think we’ll be back anytime soon (unless it’s back to Muang La to visit Mr. Henri!)

Stay tuned for Jake’s post about Hanoi!

Nicole and I are at it again...
Last week I graduated from business school and while Nicole still has a few years to go in her PhD, we have a bit of transition in our lives. At the end of the month, we'll be relocating to St. Louis, where I'll start work with Anheuser-Busch (now ABInbev) in marketing. She'll still be commuting to New York, but after two years, we'll actually live together again (thank goodness for a far simpler life). In fact, we just signed a lease on a great place in St. Louis' Central West End, and after spending a few days in the city, are looking forward to our move.
First though, we thought a bit of celebration was in order, so in customary style and to take advantage of the most downtime we'll have in some time, we're off on one last long trip - three weeks spent primarily in Laos and Vietnam. We'll be starting the main part of the trip in Luang Prabang, after which we'll spend time in the north of the country and on a lazy cruise back down the Mekong to the city. Then we'll head to Vietnam for two weeks, visiting Hanoi and the scenic hill station of Sapa in the north and Hue and Hoi An along the coast before ending with a couple of days in Ho Chi Minh (Saigon). While June may be pretty steamy in the Mekong region, we're sure it'll make good preparation for those muggy summers in STL, and there'll be plenty of spicy food (and of course beer) to cool us down.

In order to work the major flights using miles, we also fit in a stopover in Kuala Lumpur on the return, where we'll hopefully get a chance to meet up with some friends and enjoy authentic Malaysian food. Given how much sambal I've watched these guys use, I'm getting hungry just thinking about it.

Well, that's all for now. We'll be back when internet and time allow.

Thanks for reading!